The Final Day in Paris: Above and Below

It wasn’t long before our dreaded alarms were ringing and we were up and checked out of the hotel. A short tram ride later, we were walking the still quiet streets in an effort to find some breakfast before our upcoming catacombs tour. We happened to stumble upon a small local bakery (Pain Au Levain) in the Denfert-Rochereau neighborhood which allowed us to try some freshly made baked goods. As we sat on the cold metal chairs outside the bakery, we indulged in some doughnuts and bread while watching the city slowly begin to wake up. Concluding our breakfast, we still had some time to kill before our scheduled tour time so we decided to venture around the surrounding area. Our feet took us into a small nearby park square (Square Claude Nicolas Ledoux) and we all sat on a bench, without much spoken between us. As I mentioned previously, it is again moments like this, just rare occasions where you can sit and look around you. I can’t speak for Austin or Matt, but it felt like a still calmness set over the park and we just sat and tried to retain it. Some time later, our tour window approached and we set out of the small park, quietly slipped into the growing line outside of the catacomb entrance.

Soon we were herded through several counters and were quickly equipped with a small listening device that instantly began to creak historical dates and figures. With our backpacks now on our chests (house rules), we began the long and twisting descent down a never ending spiral staircase.

With each step, we began to leave the world of the living behind and soon we were in tight dark corridors made of hand cut stone.

We proceeded through these desolate tunnels for 20 minutes until a room opened up with a stark warning carved upon the next doorway, “Arrete! C’est Ici L’Empire De La Mort”, which translated is “Stop! This is the empire of death”.

Leaving our earthly world behind, we stepped forward into the unknown. Instantly our surroundings of stone were instead replaced with walls of human bone. We proceeded to spend the next hour shuffling through endless tunnels with human skulls, femurs, and other grisly remains as our only companions.

On these trips, we have encountered some legendary sites and have seen relics and art of mythical status. Yet nothing could have prepared me for what we experienced in the catacombs. Walking past rows and rows containing the remains of thousands of past souls, it was utterly sombering. Looking upon a skull, a thought kept rising to the top. This was once a human just as I am. This person ate, drank, fought, loved, laughed, all like me. They had a job, relationships, they had a life. Yet now all that remains is a stark white piece of bone staring directly through me.

As we navigated through the twisting maze of the dead, each passing skull began to attack me with thoughts on who the owner was and their story. Listening to the electronic guide around our necks, we learned some of these remains were those executed during the bloody French Revolution. Kings, queens, scholars, and even revolutionaries were buried here, all intertangled forever with the same fate.

The catacombs had a large immediate impact on me and it seemed Austin had the same emotions as when we finally ascended back to the world of the living, we decided to get a tattoo to capture the moment. Unfortunately our walk to the almighty Pantheon did not contain a tattoo parlor and the moment escaped us. With the haunting spirits left in the depths of the earth, we erased the catacombs from our minds and found ourselves in the large bright hall of the Pantheon (a stark contrast to what we just experienced an hour before).

After some time within the ornate rooms, we again found ourselves in a crypt, this time underneath the Pantheon.

Unlike the catacombs, these tombs contained some of France’s most treasured sons and daughters, with their names clearly broadcasted for all to see and remember. Walking through the hushed crypt, we ended up seeing the final resting place for souls such as Rousseau, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Louis Braille, Marie Curie, and countless others. After seeing the tombs of these legendary figures, it is always humbling knowing that these heroes that live amongst the pages of history books were in fact real living and breathing creatures.

Once we had explored everything the Pantheon had to offer, we again set back off through countless Parisian streets in a new attempt to find some lunch. Fortunately we stumbled upon a meager little sandwich stall (Toscanino) and seated in front of the shop; we devoured our lunch, feeling like we managed to capture an authentic moment.

With our hunger subsided, we ventured back out to our next attraction. Unfortunately due to the ongoing Olympics, the next site, a small Roman arena (Arenes De Lutece), was closed due to some event. Setting our disappointment aside, it wasn’t long until we were at our next stop, Place de la Bastille. Once the former site of the infamous Bastille prison, all that remains today is a large green column rising to the sky.

Once the site of many legendary prisoners and even the storming of the Bastille, little remains to remind you of the history. It was still very surreal being able to stand in this spot and try to turn back the years to see the importance of this very location. As we stood in the shade of the large column, we realized we were now ahead of schedule (due to the arena closure previously). With this new influx of time, we decided to sidestep our guide and see something I had earmarked before but cut due to time constraints. We set off on this new detour and took a tram to the eastern edge of Paris. Soon we were in a rather desolate commercial area with hardly anyone about. We ventured forward into a large empty courtyard and found ourselves in the Picpus Cemetery.

As we obviously didn’t have our fair share of death yet (catacombs and the crypt), we again were surrounded by tombs of those who had gone before us. However one of these tombs stood out amongst the rest. Though it looked like those surrounding it, the name embossed on the front cleared it from the rest. We had arrived at the final resting place of famed French general Marquis Lafayette. Lafayette had come over from France to the United States as a teenager and fought as a general in the American Revolution before heading back to France and helping establish their country during their own revolution. His grave is notable as an American flag has flown on his tomb for years, even during the Nazi occupation of Paris.

Being able to pay respects to this legendary figure was a great honor and I was very glad we were able to make this detour. Directly next to Lafayette’s grave was a small grassy plot of land surrounded by a tall fence. Buried here are the remains of 1,400 people who were executed at the hands of the French revolutionists (including Lafayette’s mother-in-law and sister-in-law).

Some time later, we left the cemetery behind us (though there was a minute of panic as we thought we were locked in it) and we were back in the bustling center of Paris. A short while later we were straining our necks looking up at the mighty Notre Dame cathedral before us. Unfortunately, due to the fire a few years prior, it was still closed for construction so we had to enjoy the sites from the exterior. There was a large section of metal bleachers set up in front of the cathedral (left from the Olympics) and we climbed up the steps and nestled amongst the crowd of people. We took a few minutes basking in the view before departing to the closest train station.

We set off down the rails towards the outskirts of Paris to find our lodging for the night. We arrived late in the afternoon and exited the station to subpar first impressions. Directly out of the station, there were several men grilling food over a fire in a metal shopping cart and the area immediately gave off a tougher vibe. We had a long walk to our hotel and we had some speed in our step. As we walked parallel to the road, we passed countless large businesses and factories (including the Loreal makeup headquarters) while bypassing locals who proceeded to cast judging glances which also added to the strange atmosphere.

Eventually we arrived at our hotel and after checking in and dropping off our bags, we set back off into the dying light outside in a search for dinner. Unfortunately our options for food were rather limited and we had trouble even locating a restaurant. We instead popped into a cramped and dirty convenience store and stocked up on stale bread, sliced meat, cheese, and sports drinks (while Matt grabbed a small bottle of wine) before heading back to a small rural “park” we passed on the way. Situated in a clearing next to a large abandoned building, we sat on a little park bench and had a small feast.

Several locals strode by and laughed at the scene before them with one even saying “you guys have a little picnic!” We also began to attract the attention of a few sweat bees and all three of us danced around trying to fend off the little invader.

Though it was not the most glamorous setting or the most delectable meal, it was a true highlight for me and I enjoy these little unplanned moments.

After we had finished with our dinner, we made our way back to our hotel and slipped up to the lobby bar in the back for some local beers. Some drinks later, we eventually made our way back up to our room and began to plan for the upcoming day and flight. It is within this moment of slightly drunken bliss when we realized we had made a rather grave mistake in our planning. We were currently on the outskirts of Paris as we thought we would be flying out of the airport that was nearby. Somehow we had overlooked the airport and instead were flying out of one closer to the city center. This meant we had come all this way for no reason and subjected ourselves to this rougher area all for naught. We could not believe we had made this simple mistake yet mistakes happen and the day went well. Memories were made, smiles and laughs were shared, and all were safe. Though it was an error, it was one in which I have no true qualms over.

To see the previous day’s adventure, click here.

To move onwards with us along our journey, click here.